Every now and then We get e-mails and comments from readers who want to pick my brain on car audio upgrades. One recent one asked, “Could you recommend me a good 2000 watts amp?”.
There’s no denying that a good amp can do wonders in terms of sound quality even in a stock setup. A power amplifier will breathe life into your music, bringing out all of its excitement and detail. And it goes without saying that if you want your music to be loud, and most importantly, crisp and clear, amplifiers are definitely part of the picture.
Choosing a good amplifier for a car audio system can be a daunting task. There are lots of choices to sift through, not to mention a ton of things to take into account.
In this post, we’ll be looking at some of the best 2000 Watt amps in the market. But, because everyone has a different idea of what a good car amplifier looks like, we’ve listed some pricey amps, some cheap ones and everything in between.
It must be noted that large sound systems, and sometimes even modestly powered systems are very demanding when it comes to using power. They can heavily stress your car’s electronics, especially during a sub amp’s burst of energy when it produces loud bass notes.
In such situations, every part of the electrical system suffers because of the amp’s sudden demand on the limited supply of power, amplifier included.
Headlights dimming or flickering (due to voltage drop) along with the beat is one of the main symptoms of a sound system drawing too much power out of your car’s electrical system, and the charging system in your car just can’t keep up.
To remedy this problem, you need to consider upgrading three components of your system including the wiring, the battery and the alternator (more on this down below).
Most factory charging systems can only take 500-1000 watts of additional power without seeing much fluctuation in voltage. Therefore, it’s highly likely that you’ll need to upgrade the components mentioned above when a power hungry amp is added to your system.
Furthermore, it must be noted that there’s a huge difference between a 2000 watts amplifier and 2000 watt RMS amp. The latter can put out that amount of power on continuous basis, whilst the former can only deliver that amount as a sudden short burst during a musical peak.
Best 2000 Watt RMS Amps
1. Skar Audio RP-2000.1D
|Dimensions||6.25″W x 2.25″H x 17.75″L|
|Number of channels||1|
|Frequency range||20Hz – 250Hz|
|Power Handling|| |
While Skar Audio might be one of the younger companies in the car audio industry, it has been able to carve out a place for itself as a viable competitor. The company offers a wide selection of car audio components including subwoofers, speakers and amplifiers.
The RP-2000.1D is one of the best monoblock amplifiers that Skar Audio have to offer. It’s designed with both power and reliability in mind compared to anything else on the market in its class.
This amplifier is stable down to 1 ohm and can deliver a ton of power on continuous basis thanks to its premium beefy components that make it extremely powerful and reliable – such as its high-speed MOSFET power supply and advanced PCB board layout.
Priced below $300, and conservatively rated at 2,000 watts RMS power at a 1-ohm load, with the capabilities of putting out beyond 2,800 watts at max power output, the RP-2000.1D by far one of the most affordable monoblock amplifiers in the market.
In addition to its high-grade components and great power output, this amplifier is featured with oversized 1/0 gauge power and ground terminals which allows for maximum current flow and therefore higher power output and more efficiency.
Speaking of efficiency, this amp comes with a built-in user control panel, featuring a bass EQ switch (0, +6, +12dB), and variable adjustment tunings for gain level, low-pass filter, and subsonic filter.
In addition to all the above features, this model is equipped with built-in heatsinks that will keep your amp cool. Its 4-way protection circuitry on the other hand will give you the peace of mind knowing your amp is protected against damage to the amplifier for various reasons – including electrical shortage, overheating, low voltage, and more.
This amplifier comes with a remote subwoofer level control (bass knob) for full control over the bass on the fly.
2. Rockford Fosgate T2500-1bdCP
|Dimensions||14-15/16″W x 2-1/4″H x 8-15/16″D|
|Number of channels||1|
|Frequency range||20-250 Hz|
|Power Handling|| |
|S/N Ratio||70 dB|
Rockford Fosgate is a brand that doesn’t really need an introduction. It’s been around for a very long time, and out of all the brands in the car audio industry, none have set the standard the way Rockford Fosgate has.
Rockford Fosgate offers everything from speakers and subwoofers to amplifiers and signal processors. Their products are synonymous with quality and reliability. They fall into three main series. There’s “Prime” series for entry-level products, “Punch” series for mid-range products, and “power” for high-end products.
Rockford Fosgate Power Series amps sit at the top of the car audio food chain, with proven durability and advanced technologies that deliver stronger, more reliable performance than the competition. And as you might already have guessed, all of that comes at a fairly hefty price tag.
The beast at hand comes equipped with heavy-duty, state-of-the-art components which allow for impressive power output, and long term reliability.
Speaking of reliability, this amp comes equipped with a state of art Dynamic Thermal Management design that shunts heat away from the internal components, and distributes heat evenly for higher efficiency and lower distortion. Furthermore, there’s a unique heat sink which allows the heat to escape more readily so the high-power output transistors stay cooler and last longer.
Unlike most car amps in this category, the T2500-1bdCP uses an efficient Class bd design to deliver up to 2,500 watts on continuous basis. It can even drive a 1-ohm load, so you can get massive bass out of a wide variety of system designs.
The best thing with this amplifier is that it’s designed to constantly monitor your sub’s performance using Rockford Fosgate’s Constant Power technology. As you might already know, a speaker’s impedance is constantly fluctuating for different audio frequencies. So, similarly to your cruise control which increases the engine’s RPM to maintain your car’s speed uphill, Rockford Fosgate Constant Power technology maintains this amp’s output by increasing its internal voltage and current when the speaker’s impedance rises.
This allows for up to a 25% increase in the amp’s total power output, especially in the crucial range below 50 Hz where a sub amp really has to shine.
It must be noted that this amplifier is power hungry. Its power consumption is beyond of most factory electrical systems. Therefore, to power it, you may need to upgrade your car’s electrical system.
3. BOSS Audio Systems AR3000D
- Monoblock, class D, MOSFET power supply
- Low level inputs
- RCA pre-amp outputs
- Variable low pass crossover
- Variable bass boost
- Variable subsonic filter and switchable phase control
- Include remote subwoofer control
Last update on 2022-08-12 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
|Dimensions||12.31″L x 6.5″W x 2.8″H|
|Number of channels||1|
|Frequency range||15 – 250 Hz|
|Power Handling|| |
|S/N Ratio||100 dB|
If you’re on a strict budget and looking for a decent amplifier with great power output, then the Boss Audio AR3000D is a decent option to consider.
Boss Audio has sunk its teeth deep into the world of low-priced audio, and the amplifier at hand is no exception. It isn’t by any means a top of the line product, but it can get the job done for the price. It uses class D circuitry design and it’s stable down to 1 ohm.
Despite the fact that this amp is advertised as 3000 watts amp, we believe that its wattage rating is about three times less at 1 ohm, which is not actually that awful for the money.
Features wise, this Boss Audio amp comes equipped with a switchable phase control to allow you to adjust the speakers phase and ensure all audio signals are playing together rather than against each other, A subsonic filter for optimum bass response, subwoofer level control to boost or attenuate the sub level, variable bass boost to adjust the low bass within the boost range, as well as a variable low-pass filter which gives you control over the frequencies that pass through to the subwoofer.
Additionally, this amplifier is featured with low level inputs, RCA pre-amp outputs, and a remote subwoofer control to adjust bass level on the fly.
4. Massive Audio E4
- Built-in OEM line converter
- High power in extremely small heat sink
- Built-in noise reduction circuitry
- Full MOSFET with high grade switching devices
- Regulated power supply & Dual output voltage
- Built-in auto sensing turn-on via hi-input
- 0 ~ 12db variable bass boost
Last update on 2022-08-06 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
|Dimensions||14.3 (in) x 5.9 (in) x 2.1 (in)|
|Number of channels||1|
|Frequency range||10Hz – 220 Hz|
|Power Handling|| |
|S/N Ratio||> 80 dB|
Massive Audio is another well-reputed names in the car audio industry. Founded in 1999, the company has released everything from speakers and amplifiers to subwoofers and accessories and maintained a level of quality throughout.
The Massive Audio E4 is one of the best 2000 watt RMS amp that Massive Audio have to offer. It’s very well made and can provide a real punch for serious audiophiles.
The amplifier at hand can deliver up to 2000 watts of power on continuous basis, and twice that at peak. It’s equipped with a small, yet efficient heatsink, MOSFET power supply, as well as noise reduction circuity. There’s also 0~12dB bass boost, and ground loop isolator.
The best thing with this amplifier besides its great power output is the fact that it’s featured with a built-in OEM line converters with RCA inputs that can take a high level speaker signal at up to 10 Volts directly in.
5. Taramp’s HD 3000
|Dimensions||9″H x 2.56″W x 7.32″D|
|Number of channels||1|
|Frequency range||10Hz Hz ~ 20 kHz (-3dB)|
|Power Handling|| |
|S/N Ratio||89 dB|
Taramp is a brand that we haven’t discussed much on our site, and even though it isn’t as well-known as other brands like Rockford Fosgate or Skar Audio, their products have been clocking up some pretty great reviews, for good reason.
Taramp offers flagship components at mid-range prices, with great performance and impressive built-quality. Their products are well worthy of standing up to the rest of the competition, and the amplifier at hand is no exception.
The Taramp’s HD 3000 is a monoblock channel amplifier that uses Class D circuitry design. It can deliver up to 2025 Watts RMS at 2 ohm, and up to 3000 watts RMS at 1 Ohm load, which is quite impressive for an amplifier this size.
This amplifier sports 89dB signal to noise ratio, and 10Hz ~ 20 kHz frequency response. It’s equipped with high- and low-pass filters, and bass boost.
To keep it running cool, this amplifier uses a fan with 3 speeds to shunt heat away from the internal components. It’s also equipped with protection circuitry for high- and low supply voltage, short-circuit to output, and thermal overload.
How to Choose the Right Car Amplifier
To choose the right car amplifier, you need to take a few things into consideration including but not limited to:
- Power rating
- System compatibility
- Number of channels
- RMS: RMS (or “continuous”) power rating is one of the most important factors to pay close attention to when you’re buying a new car amplifier. RMS (“Root Mean Square”) refers to the amount of continuous power, measured in watts, that an amplifier can produce on continuous basis. The higher the RMS figure, the louder and cleaner your music sounds.
- Peak: Some amp manufacturers like the brag about the peak power ratings of their amps and often display it on the face of their products. It’s just a marketing gimmick. Don’t fall for it.The peak power rating only tells you the maximum wattage an amplifier can deliver as a brief burst during a musical peak, like a dramatic drum accent. The RMS figure is more significant and more indicative of the amp’s long-term performance.
Number of channels
I’m only powering my speakers
If you only need to power a single pair of speakers, a 2-channel amplifier is the most practical solution for you. If you’re powering a two pair of speakers (front and rear speakers) and want to retain front-to-rear fade control, get a 4-channel amp — one channel for each speaker.
I want to power speakers and a subwoofer
There are many other amplifier configurations for when you want to include a subwoofer in your system. A 3-channel amplifier for example can take care of a single pair of speakers plus a sub quite effectively.
A 4-channel amplifier can also be employed to drive a pair of speakers and a subwoofer – two channels to run speakers and the other two bridge together to power the subwoofer. Alternatively, you can hook all four coaxial speakers to the same amp, and then install a separate mono amp for the subwoofer.
I want to power an entire system
You may also want to opt for a 5-channel amplifier that can power your entire system from one convenient and compact package. Use four of its channels to drive your speakers, and use the remaining one to run your subwoofer. 6- and 8-channel amps take that all-in-one design and add even more system-building flexibility.
Since you’re looking for a 2000 watts amplifier, we’ll assume that you are going to use it to drive a subwoofer or a couple of subs. Therefore, you’ll need to make sure your subwoofer’s top RMS rating is equal to or slightly greater than the amp’s top RMS output.
Not only that, but you also need to impedance match your sub amp and sub. You don’t want to buy a couple of subwoofers and an amplifier, only to find out that the amp can’t run the subs because wired together, their impedance would be too low for the amp to run without overheating or going into protect mode.
Keep in mind that if you’re adding a subwoofer to a factory system, you’ll need to opt for an amplifier with speaker-level inputs, so you can get its signal from the factory speaker wires.
How to give your car’s electrical system a power-up
Flickering headlights when listening to music are a good sign that your amp(s) is drawing a lot of power from your electrical system, and the charging system in your car isn’t able to keep up with the high current demand.
There are a few actions you can take to solve this problem. The order in which you should do them and even their usefulness are a matter of serious debate in the car audio community. The following is our contribution to the argument.
The very first thing you should do is to make sure all the connectors and the battery terminals are fastened tightly and positioned correctly on the mounting bracket, and that the surfaces used in power and ground connections are sanded down and are in contact with the vehicle’s bare metal.
1. Add a capacitor
If your headlights are dimming only occasionally, and only when loud bass notes play, then a car audio capacitor will do the trick and fix the problem.
A car audio capacitor, or cap for short, is an electronic device that can take up, store, and discharge electrical energy quickly. It’s meant to filter or buffer any sudden changes in a circuit’s voltage, thereby smoothing out the power demands by providing a short burst of energy when needed.
We recommend 2 farads of capacitor for every 1,000 watts RMS of total amplifier power.
2. The big Three wiring upgrade
The stock wiring is just sufficient enough to support the electronics the vehicle came with from the factory. Any extra load will require upgrading the wire and possibly the alternator.
Now, you may be wondering..”Why do we care about the alternator so much if the battery is what supplies power to all the electronics?”
Well, your car’s starts the engine, but the alternator takes over when the engine is running. Furthermore, the alternator generates a higher voltage than the battery is at. This allows it to simultaneously charge the battery and be the primary source of power for all the electronics in the vehicle when the engine is running.
With all of that being said, there are three key areas in your vehicle (hence big three upgrade) that need to be improved to allow current to flow more freely so you can get the maximum from your stock alternator and battery, and those are:
- Power wire from the alternator to the battery
- Ground wire from the engine to the chassis
- Ground wire from the battery to the frame
It’s highly recommended to use 0 gauge 100% oxygen free copper power wire in order to have proper conductive surface area to move more electrons with less resistance.
The big three wiring upgrade will prevent light dim, voltage drops, and will also help boost the charging system to or near 14.4 volts.
3. Upgrade to high output alternator
The alternator in your vehicle is an engine-driven device that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy. It’s the ultimate source for all of your vehicle’s power when the engine is running. The battery starts the engine, but the alternator takes over supplying power to the car’s onboard electronics when the engine starts to turn.
That said, If your sound system is drawing more power than your stock alternator can supply, you’ll definitely benefit by upgrading to a higher output aftermarket alternator.
This seems like bitter pill to swallow, but if you’ve invested so much in a sound system that draws this much power, you shouldn’t mind solving this problem of supply and demand by increasing the supply of power.
4. Add a second battery
Adding an extra battery is another efficient way to give your car’s electrical system a power-up. The extra battery is most often installed near the amplifier. It’s meant to be another source of power available to fill in the gaps when the system needs it. Having two batteries wired in parallel act like one battery with twice the capacity.
Adding a second battery is a must in case you like playing music that much with the engine turned off. In such situations, it’s highly recommended that you use an isolators between the two batteries, so that the one used to start the car won’t get drained by the amp’s pull.